Friday 17 December 2010

Christmas Man


Dressing with style at Christmas is a tough one. With all the lights and glitter and what have you, it’s tempting to succumb to the lure of the season and go for the sparkly or shiny. Oh, and no novelty sweaters, please (see left)
Like the best-dressed Christmas tree, less is more. A little discreet colour and sparkle here and there – the raffish pocket handkerchief or cravat, some sparkly cuff links – is great for party wear.
I think the jacket is the perfect party item rather than the full suit. You don’t want to look too “just come from the office” and this year there is a range of examples shot with a touch of the exotic and unusual.
By all means go for that wild brocade number, or the astrakhan collar if you’re brave enough, but velvet is on the rails of all the top designers this season: Paul Smith, D&G, Amani. Even M&S has a decent enough blue version. Yes, they’ve been around for a while but the shawl colour, in satin, is the seasonal update. Two or one-button is best, of course. Halston does a particularly fine looking version in a smokey hue, available in Harrods.
There’s something about velvet that’s perfect for the winter party. It’s plush, rich-looking – and ladies will no doubt want to stroke it. All good.
So what to wear with it? If you’re the peacock type go for some striking trousers: I think something with a check (not too golfy, mind) looks good, and Etro the Italian fashion house that does natty things with colour and pattern does some muted paisley affairs that are fun. If you want the really casual look, the ubiquitous dark jean is passable but uninsipired.
Now the shirt. Let’s pass on the big-collared, loud-print, open- to-the navel, option - unless you really want to look like the love child of Graham Norton, Simon Cowell and Harry Hill.
The head-to-toe all-black look – and I don’t mean dressing like a Kiwi prop-forward - is a tad passé and makes you resemble a bouncer or someone on a perfume counter, but colours such as purple and lilac are uplifting at this time of year.
For real style, though, you can’t beat the classic, crisp white shirt. You can do the skinny tie, small lapel route – to be worn only with jacket lapels of similar width – but the shirt with a higher collar stand and bigger cutaway collar sits nicely under a jacket. Open a couple of buttons and It highlights the chest for the alpha male out to attract attention. Lounge lizards or Austin Powers wannabes can go for frills down the front
In the movie Steel Magnolias, Olympia Dukakis remarked: “The only difference between us and the animals, honey, is our ability to accessorise.” How true, Olympia. The devil is indeed in the detail.
The final touches to Christmas Man are a sharp multicoloured pocket handkerchief (Duchamp does them well), which acts a flash of colour to that all important breast area. Alternatively – but not both, please, - a cravat, tied in trad or a more rock ‘n’ roll manner, sets you apart from the herd. Don’t forget cuff links, of course, which can be slightly whimsical and glitzy at this time of year. Finally, for shoes, a black Chelsea boot is unbeatable style-wise.
Happy Christmas!

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